SPA Modeler

Thank you for the comments! Is there a particular phase or aspect of the model build that you enjoy the most? I think for me it would be the very beginning of the build and the painting stage. The painting stage is especially rewarding because that is when all of the surface prep work... filling, sanding and polishing... disappear completely.

After the painting of the bottom wings, I proceeded with my normal preshading routine. First, I trace all of the panel lines in black.



In order to provide some tonal variation in the camo finish, I augment the panel line preshade with a random mottle pattern, also in black. In the beginning, I used to freehand these mottles but I thought the results were not random enough. After playing with a few spraying templates, I started using thinned pieces of green scouring pads. Spraying through this results in a nice random pattern with both soft and hard edges and seems to work a little better as a preshading treatment.




I know it looks a little odd at this stage but the good thing about any preshading technique is that you have total control over the effect and I can dial this back all the way to zero, if I wanted to.



Next will be Light Blue, RLM 76.

I'm with you. I enjoy the build and painting. It's the fixing, sanding, filling, repeat part that I hate and usually bogs my builds down.

Totally agree

The part I like the most is the part where the last detail is done and I get to photograph it. The part I don't like is seeing the flaws in my photos! I think I enjoy most of the rest of the build process, problem solving is fun. But so are newer Tamiya kits.

Time to put the Light Blue RLM 76 on. I am using Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 76 mixed 50:50 with White. In order for the preshading to work properly, I want my paint mix very thin so that I can control the build-up of the color slowly. I thin the paint at a 2:1 thinner to paint ratio. I start at the bottom because I'm paranoid about the tape mask on the metal paint and want to remove that as quick as possible.





Once the bottom is done, I can flip the model over and start covering the sides with RLM 76. The key is to keep the airbrush moving to prevent pooling of the watery paint. I work sections at a time and apply paint until the preshade pattern is hardly noticeable. Since there is a lot of thinner in the mix, it will cut into the preshade so it is always important to give the finish a few minutes to stabilize before determining whether an area is finished.




It takes some time to build up the color but don't rush it. Too much paint and you'll lose the preshading effect completely.



After the RLM 76 is done, the wing colors (RLM 74 and 75) are applied to the top of the wings and horizontal stabilizers. Again Mr Hobby Aqueous is the paint used and the same thinner ratio is used. Some minor hairspray paint chipping was applied at the wing roots but most of it will be covered up by the next wave of camo painting.

I like this method of base painting. It seems to portray a worn paint job very well. I've used the gray warble pattern over a black base but never a black warble over primer. May give this a shot.

Call me crazy but I really enjoy the filing and sanding aspects of modeling. Detailing is my forte but the bodywork and prep is a close second.

John, just tremendous work!

Thanks guys! This preshading technique was something I developed while trying out black-basing. It's essentially an inverse of black-basing but is somewhat easier to do and takes up less paint.

I actually enjoy the filling work too because it pays such big dividends at the end of a build. I love the challenge of blending things in seamlessly, especially when you are successful. The wings on the Z-M Ta152H build was an example of putting in the work and not having it be noticeable in the end.

Ok... time for the top colors. I've chosen to paint the fuselage colors differently than the wings. It looks kinda odd but this did happen with Doras as major components were often assembled and painted in separate factories. The lighter color will be RLM 82 and that is applied first. Mr Hobby Aqueous version of RLM 82 is used.



The second color is RLM 81 and for this shade I am using AK Real Colors RLM 81 Version 1.




The "factory" paint scheme is just about done. I am going to add some of the markings and then the field-applied green colors will be sprayed on.