SPA Modeler

One word : WOOOOwwwwww

Just wonderfull weathering !!!!!
Congratulation and happy to see the result !!!

M.

A gorgeous looking build! Hard to tell the diff between a F I C E and a S W A G ..... either way you got this one down for sure!

RAGE!

The other night, I was sealing the decals on the T-80BV and glossing the T-26, and bought the MiG-21 over for a slight glossing before the sludge wash. The Vallejo Gloss Varnish worked like a charm on the T-80 and T-26, and then went down rough on the MiG-21. WTF?

Okay...so it went down a bit rough but not dealbreaking. So last night I moved on to the Flory sludge wash to pick out the surface details.



Here's before:



And the after:









Tonight I'll be removing all the #%*#^$!!%#$^ paper towel fibers from removing the wash.

Never used Phil Florys washes, but I heard that it needs a slightly rough surface to have something to grip on.
Away from the nasty fibre thing it looks just as grimy and filthy as it should.

How long did you let the wash dry? It seems that you needed a lot of moisture on the towel to let it defibrate during rubbing.

mostrich wrote:Never used Phil Florys washes, but I heard that it needs a slightly rough surface to have something to grip on.
Away from the nasty fibre thing it looks just as grimy and filthy as it should.

How long did you let the wash dry? It seems that you needed a lot of moisture on the towel to let it defibrate during rubbing.

They can be a bit frustrating to apply. Depends on the clear coat, but sometimes they bead up like nobody's business. Then you have to slather the whole thing (once the first "beads" dry, the wash will adhere to them pretty well, and you can spread outward). Sometimes they got down just fine and you can confine yourself to panel lines and rivets and such.

As to gloss/flat, it depends what you're going for. They will definitely bite better with a rougher surface and can create some interesting tonal variation in addition to popping the panel lines. Personally I prefer a semi-gloss for most applications.

I only let the stuff dry about half an hour - it's clay based and can be rewetted so you don't need to give it a lot of curing time. And the fiber debris is in large part due to the rough surface left by the Vallejo varnish...think of it like rubbing a paper towel over unfinished wood vs. linoleum or something.

Ouch, now that must have been a really rough surface. In point of clear cote I'm a Vallejo addict, so I have to be aware of this. With the new airbrush thinner they're really easy to handle for me, as long as I apply thin layers. Maybe a question of humidity.

Thanks, Matt!

Looks really good!

I'm envious of those who can build a derelict. Mostly because it seems that in order to do it right, you have to build it pristine first, then deliberately mess it up! I can tackle weathering, even heavy wear, but something that's abandoned? I'm in awe of those of you that can do this.

Looking suitably abandoned Matt!

lawman56 wrote:Looks really good!

I'm envious of those who can build a derelict. Mostly because it seems that in order to do it right, you have to build it pristine first, then deliberately mess it up! I can tackle weathering, even heavy wear, but something that's abandoned? I'm in awe of those of you that can do this.

I don't think you have to build it pristine at all!

What you do have to do is a LOT of planning in how you approach painting and weathering. Not so simple as priming and slapping on camo...

The other day I discovered what's going to become my next derelict, when the mood strikes:

Curious to see how you will do this concrete mixer...