SPA Modeler

Some more views of the camo painting. I think I've established a good base upon which the weathering will built upon.

Man, that looks good!

Superb painting John!

Unspeakably great job! I just have no words.....

Thanks guys!

After zooming through the pre-shade and camo painting process, this build has gone into a holding pattern. The kit decals are very nicely printed but are physically thicker than what I am used to working with. I've tried some experiments using hot water, Microset, Microsol, Solvaset and most recently, hot water + Mr Setter + Mr Softer solutions. I can get the decals to settle into the panels lines and rivets but the thickness of the decal carrier remains. And since the Corsair has lots of small data stencils all over the aircraft, I thought the decal thickness would be too noticeable.

So I've ordered a set of wet transfers from HGW. From what I understand, they are a bit different from decals. Initially, they are applied like decals, dipping in water to loosen the marking and then applying to a wet surface. But there is an additional step... once the marking is applied to the model, it is allowed to dry for a certain amount of hours and then you pull off the carrier film, leaving just the marking... zero film or carrier left behind. In theory, it should be the ideal way to apply markings but I've heard some horror stories of the transfers not sticking to the model, wholly or partially.


I could not find the transfers in stock anywhere domestically so I ordered directly from HGW and am now waiting for delivery.

There are some things that I can work on in the meantime like painting the black NO WALK areas on the wings but the next major step (weathering) can't begin until after the markings have been applied.

I've pulled some of the paint masks off including the one stuffed into the engine cowling. I mounted the prop to see how much of the engine would be visible... not much but at least it is not completely closed off like the Ta152 will be.


A visual reminder of the beautiful engine that Tamiya provides with the F4U kit. Looking back with 20/20 hindsight, I may have left off the Vector cowling flaps IF that would guarantee me a perfect friction fit of the engine cowlings instead of having to glue them into place.

John, first...Happy Anniversary!

This is incredible! Those stencil transfers would seem to be an ideal solution.

Wow John! That engine looks too real! I could swear that if you added a drop of fuel to it that it would start up and fly this plane away! Man, this is too much!

LyleW wrote:John, first...Happy Anniversary!

This is incredible! Those stencil transfers would seem to be an ideal solution.

Thank you! We will be celebrating 26 years tonight! Truly blessed to have such a wonderful wife!

Hopefully, the transfers arrive soon and that I don't run into any mishaps. Mr Setter and Mr Softer are the HGW-recommended decal solutions so I'll be following the instructions to the letter.

Duke Maddog wrote:Wow John! That engine looks too real! I could swear that if you added a drop of fuel to it that it would start up and fly this plane away! Man, this is too much!

Thanks Duke! I usually don't spend much time on engines but being an air-cooled radial and mounted in a open cowling with no prop spinner to hide behind, I felt compelled to do my best on it, knowing that it may eventually get covered up. I'm glad I took a lot of high quality photographs to have as a record of the work.

That's one thing that I don't like about building a Ta-152 or 190 unless I open it all up is that there is no way that you can see the engine. These radial engine American aircraft really lend themselves to a showcase up front and.....if the builder wants they can even open one of the smaller engine side panels to give the onlooker a "peek". Sorry to hear about the thick decals John. Will be looking forward to more progress.