SPA Modeler

BlackSheep214 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2024 2:52 pm Heh… I have Pollyscale Doped Linen. Kinda a yellowish tint.

That’s very cool, Tom. I’m a bit jealous. My plan is to try making a brush paint mix over antique white or ivory linen to work towards effective appearing stretch marks. I also have some deck tan on the way for the cockpit base. I am also collecting a truckload of images online, joined a Sopwith Camel Group on FB, too.

Part IV

Additional Reference
RAF Museum, London

All photographs by Marius De Bruyckere
SPAM Member: Bolleken

speedgraflex wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2024 3:15 pm

BlackSheep214 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2024 2:52 pm Heh… I have Pollyscale Doped Linen. Kinda a yellowish tint.

That’s very cool, Tom. I’m a bit jealous. My plan is to try making a brush paint mix over antique white or ivory linen to work towards effective appearing stretch marks. I also have some deck tan on the way for the cockpit base. I am also collecting a truckload of images online, joined a Sopwith Camel Group on FB, too.

I often like to mix some colors for certain subjects. Antique white, even off white mixed with a tiny bit of yellow could yield something you’re looking for. You’d be surprised to find that “Eureka !” moment. Lookingg forward to what you can do and will be watching this build.

BlackSheep214 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2024 2:52 pm Heh… I have Pollyscale Doped Linen. Kinda a yellowish tint.

Same with Humbrol, it’s more of a cream color. I used it on my Oeffag Albatross



I used Testors Enamel square bottle Cream on my Sopwith Camel



But if you want options, AK makes this set of three different shades of Doped Linen

https://ak-interactive.com/product/clear-doped-linen-3/

John Eaton / Blacksheep Tom / Carlos Stikpusher Singh!

Thank you, gentlemen! Cream… with a single shot of espresso sounds grand to me about now.

Part V

Model dry fit begins. Started to assess the kit: plastic quality and finish (scratches from years of moving and shaking); hard olive green plastic:



Used 400 wet/dry grit removal of a step between wing roots and fuselage halves:



Here you can see the interior and fuselage gap:

Following with great interest. I’ve never seen one of these old Revell 1/28 WWI Aircraft kits built up outside of the catalogs. I remember seeing bunches of them on the shelves at the store when I was a kid, but they looked way too advanced for me.

Cool! So happy to see your work again, too!

Bruce, I would caution you to not try to make this a Wing Nut Wings equivalent, it's a lot more fun to build them as you would have as a kid without frustration over a few seams here and there and they are a nice representation of the higher level of modeling in the mid 60's.

Here's a Dr.1 from the series I built in 1967, my room mate in college built the Camel but we only had wars about my trumpet playing. I know that missing interplane strut is around here somewhere!

Carlos / Lyle / John

I want to thank you all most sincerely for your comments. I remember seeing built versions of this kit as well at the local hobby shop which wasn’t really that local but my Dad would drive me there when I was a wee lad by the side of the ditch and totally in awe of the miniature magic.

Another view:




I have to stop and think about building this box stock with the addition only of the box missing or not included “thread” that was recommended by Revell for rigging. One thing I could do would be to increase my coefficient of difficulty and build this without any putty. My Dad’s generation of model builders did not really seem to have much use for putty; but these guys were fabricators (“Here kid, here’s a sheet of brass. Go make a model.”) I’m really thinking about what you wrote twice now, John. You have my utmost respect for what you wrote. I wasn’t planning to do too much with the PE other than the wicker seat and gun jackets, but I could easily lose my self control and start fabrication of a better cockpit.