SPA Modeler

Thanks, Kari!

I found that painting the kit parts after cleanup reveals the areas that need to be removed or repaired, which I know is quite counterintuitive to the traditional building process for model makers; however this does make cleanup easier for me. I think the choice by Revell to use dark green for the plastic color makes identifying flash removal more difficult and that thought makes sense since the company’s current version is upgraded to a light tan plastic more representative of a basic linen color. This early kit was meant to only be partially painted and the green plastic was chosen as its final form. Since taking the photo, I have removed the “end brace” added by Revell to each pair of push rods. The red area—



These are of actual engine closeup photos of a Clerget Type 9B owned by the Smithsonian—



The aircraft metal finish I am using is Tamiya’s excellent aluminum over a deep blue initial color base. I’m actually debating adding the copper color to the tubing sections behind the engine block itself. Revell’s instructions do call out painting those areas correctly. Also the instructions call for a Vaseline petroleum “lube job” of the propellor shaft as this is a moving part. I don’t think this is necessary as there is plenty of shaft spin hahaha, oh Revell! What I do see painting would be the white ceramic spark plugs and what might be fun to super detail would be the addition of the spark plug leads.

Mostly speechless with this project, so I’m pretty quiet. But, wow! Your patience, research and skill are on full display.

Thanks, Lyle!!

You are too kind. There’s no need to be quiet, I’m learning so much from your own work with vintage kits and any time you comment helps my morale and that is invaluable. Cheers, mate. Happy New Year

Interesting to learn you use aluminum over deep blue base. Gotta try that. I’m gobsmacked on the attention to detail you’re putting into this build. Bravo!

Thank you, Tom!

You’re far too kind. I learn so much from your projects. Each time you come up with great solutions, too many to list, but I have become better because of following your work advice.

Today I contacted a decal print shop in the UK who already has 1:32, 1:48 and 1:72 scale roundel sets available for use on older kits. Here’s their info—

Fantasy Printshop

Fantasy Printshop was started in 1997 by Raymond Horwell and has grown every year giving the modeler and Model supplier more, our own Fantasy Printshop Catalogue range is up to a 1,000 products.

We screen print all our decals ( water slide transfers ) and now have added a Roland UV printer to the decals for custom decals that only require 1 or 2 sheets. We print a minimum of 25 A4 sheets from 1 colour to 20 colours or more if needed which are screen printed by hand for best quality.

We also now do R.C. and Scalextric and Slot car stickers
Artwork needs to be supplied in Corel Draw and Illustrator all colours need to be layered and marked in Pantone colours.

Let’s see if they will upscale a set for this project!

Aviattic Models

I also wrote to Aviattic Models in the UK asking Richard the same question. Let’s see how he answers. Aviattic produces excellent WWI kits and details.





Aviattic strives to offer the finest WW1 scale models, accessories and decals.

Extensively researched and designed by some of the world's most knowledgable early aviation authors, artists and modellers.

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​"Happy hunting, gentlemen!" Rittmeister Manfred von Richthofen

That’s great!

Graphite adjustments to the metal. Remember nothing is glued yet so the pieces aren’t finessed into alignment. This will happen soon.
Also—there’s an issue with the centering of the cowl piece that requires attention. Here we go. Hold on to your hats, gentle reader!
I white glued the firewall/engine to the fuselage to facilitate any adjustments.

This is where the fun begins. Fill numero uno.
Now must wait four hours.
Time to watch a movie.

Or time get some sleep… four hours later will be at O Dark Thirty…

Thanks, Carlos!

Sleep was the option I chose. Cheers, mate.