SPA Modeler

Here’s a question: What is the best kind of glue to use here? I have all kinds; from the Mr Cement Line to the “Bob’s Your Uncle” brands of CA. The one thing that foolishly happened while I was away was my jar of “Same Stuff” was left only partially capped and dried out, evaporated. Should I reload this?

Wow, how amazing it is being able to watch this. Keep it coming Bruce!

I'd use the Testor's glue that comes in the black squarish bottle with the metal tube. The heavier body gives the glue time to work, just like the tube glue used to do. Works better than thin cements where the fits are not perfect.

Duke Duke Duke

Thanks Thanks Thanks

John,

Funny I had a premonition that you might share something from the Testors lineup. Thank you, sir! This was one of the cements I tested when I first built the original Aurora Moonbus. My thinking was that I should try glue and paint as close to the original kit requirements as possible which is nearly the same mandate here. I had a lot of trouble with the applicator and design; I think that may be because I could be more of a glue brusher than a glue squirter or a glue secreter (I’m not sure if I’m using these words properly). I’m going to order some glue and try this again.

New Lightbox Test Shots









I haven’t dialed in white balance yet, nor do I have a sense of the hot spots but I think the 16 x 12 size is actually quite good and a bit better for shooting basic model progress shots than the taller box format. For one thing, the lights are much closer to the object/subject.

Injection pin mark? I am pretty sure that should not be there.

Come think of it, I’ve got the Academy 1/32 scale Sopwith Camel kit in my stash.

Not that I’m the least bit jealous, Tom! The Academy kit looks like the bee’s knees.

I am also really really REALLY in an internal struggle over how much to do with this kit. I’m going to finish fettling then do a clean sand polish before hitting primer on plastic. For primer I am choosing Mr Surfacer White 1500. It’s a bit on the thin side but I want to see what happens with green underneath. The kit instructions are to leave the green alone and paint around it, but I don’t think I want to do that. I know I don’t want to do that.

Looks more like a black hole passed through there!

jeaton01 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 19, 2024 4:18 pm Looks more like a black hole passed through there!

Haha yes; indeed it does!

Roundel color reference notes via Britmodeler:

“Citadel blood red is VERY close to the decals, regal blue is a bit lighter but ok for small touch ups. I've stopped using enamels as I find acrylics better for brush painting but I remember a humbrol matt blue 25 that was ok as was their matt scarlet 60.”

Fantastic photos on that light booth. And yes, that is an ejector pin mark that should be eliminated. A good sanding will do that. I still use the old Testor's orange tube glue myself.