................be gentile. Anyways. The Stuka is one of those subjects I've always wanted to do, especially a Battle of Britain version with the "Jericho Trumpet", making it perhaps the first legitimate terror weapon. An awesome Stuka group build over at the FSM forum prompted my enthusiasm about this subject and I found this Hasegawa B-1 on E-bay reasonably cheap. 
For this project I procured a Quickboost seat(s). I may still add Exhausts wheels and Quickboost guns....we'll see if its worth it. I procured Superscale sheet (#48-0833) which has two B-1s and a B-2 from the summer and fall of 1940. On a side note, I was curious as to why most Stuka decal sheets represent B-2s from the Russian front? I promptly learned that mostly B-1's participated and B-2 frames didn't arrived until the summer of 1940. By then they were apparently pulled from front line service due to high losses to Spifires and Hurricanes. Perhaps I'l back date the kit. My research said the main difference is the exhausts, props and the radiator flaps under the chin. I also read that "late B-1" Stukas had the exhausts upgraded to the B-2 versions? I am not a Stuka expert so "close enough" is likely going to be good enough for me. I'm really not too worried about a panel line here or vent there.....
I started with the cockpit. I thought the cockpit on the kit was acceptable, certainly from what will be seen anyways. Lately I've been on a trend of using out of the box cockpits that are hard to see, perhaps to save time, dough and energy. For example, in my opinion, resin in an FW 109 or KI-43 would be a waste, however, on a P-47 or P-51, it would be worthwhile to replace it. Besides,careful painting could go along way right? I figured with this turkey, I would just replace the seat and be done with it. Its the main focal point of the cockpit anyways. There is a kit supplied decal for the instrument panel. I decided I would use that too, in lieu of a etch replacement. Here I laid out all of the cockpit pieces before I dove in..
Over at the FSM forum I get alot of positive feedback on how I paint and detail my cockpits. I figured I would offer a step-by-step with pictures here. Its fairly simple and I use a few tricks. Perhaps some of you may get some use out of them.
I started by spraying everything XF-1 Flat Black (no picture). This allows for "shadowing" when the interior color is added and creates depth. My research showed that German cockpits were RLM 02 during the Battle of Britain, then changed to RLM 66 sometime in 1941. I used Gunze Aqueous RLM 02 thinned with X-20 for this. In my opinion, Gunze makes the best RLM colors.
Then its detail painting time, such as black boxes and such. My method involves Tamiya paints dipped into 91% Isoprophyl. I discovered this on accident. The key is to thin it enough to where capillary action will cover the box, coupled with the fast drying of the alcohol, which prevents brush marks. Here I painted the boxes and such XF-69 NATO Black. I usually throw a silver one in there too, just for visual appeal That I use Floquil Bright silver straight from the bottle. Its nice an thin already for brush painting. I used to tape off each box off and spray...UGH!
This way is much more efficient.
Here you can see that the Quickboost seat(s) are very nice. I painted the seatbelts XF-57 Buff and the hardware with Floquil Bright Silver on a fine brush. Sometimes I use a silver Sharpie for the silver.
Here's the cockpit is drybrushed with Floquil Bright Silver (Enamel) detail painted, to include some knobs and switches picked out in red,yellow, and blue. It now gets a coat of Testor's Gloss Coat for a wash barrier (no picture of this...sorry)
.Once dry, perhaps an hour or so, it gets a Detailer wash. To me this is the fun part. I use the brown and black mixed together. I think this stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. Just slop it on...wait a couple of minutes.....then rinse it off with water to your liking.
After the wash has been removed. You can scrub off as much as you want. To my eye, this is about right. I lost the kit gun sight, so I stole one from a Hasegawa Bf 109.
Then the whole thing is sealed with Testor's Dull Coat(Note, I thin my Testor's gloss and dull with Lacquer thinner. They dry very quick.)
....and after a light post shading, which consists of alcohol diluted NATO Black XF-69 and Red Brown XF-64, we are finished. The instrument panel is the kit decal soaked in Micro Sol. After the dull coat, I added a drop of epoxy to simulate the glass lenses.
The nice part of out of the box cockpits......the fuselage usually closes without a fuss
. Here's a test fit. Like a glove. 
Well that's about it. Again, I hope some of these techniques are useful. Thank you and feedback is always welcomed...
Next its on to the airframe. More to come soon.....
Joe
It's done just like in the picture with a wet paint brush. The sooner you do it, the less effort it takes to wipe off. You just sort of wash it off with the brush. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the compliment.
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